‘The look’ for spring 2006 is a bit lighter than in seasons past. You may recall that last fall/winter marked a long overdue return to structure and basic black. Well, it’s time to move on! This spring is about mixing and matching. We’re not talking about the ‘boho chic’ of last spring, but of mixing the old with the new. Case in point: the Chloé 2006 collection combines 1960’s mod with 1940’s a-line proportions and chunky platforms. Gucci also looked back into the archives, finding older prints and patterns and reworking them with a modern eye. “We’ve come out of a long period of monochrome,” said new Gucci designer Frida Giannini, “And I love prints and colors. What I want to do is an intelligent kind of glamour for my generation. Mixing the 1940s’s and 1970’s has revived the brand yet again, just like Tom Ford did for the house almost a decade ago.”
Prada has moved to the other extreme, introducing fewer form-fitting pieces in favor of a looser-fitting silhouette with a focus on white and soft greys. Bamboo platforms and open toe boots were the collection highlights. Miu Miu, Prada’s sister label, presented disco-chic shoes in gold with wild patterns that really stood out. Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs drew on a refined 1980’s influence with an emphasis was on stylish embellishment. No shoulder pads (thankfully).
In men’s wear we are seeing more of the ‘well groomed, well dressed man.’ Skinny suits are the order of the day from Hedi Silimane for Dior men’s collection and Dolce and Gabbana men’s. Suit jackets and blazers have assumed smaller proportions, shorter sleeves, and shorter body length. John Varvatos is using sun washed fabrics and going for a softened military look. Burberry Prorsum made a trench coat comeback, modernizing the garment without changing its structure. Miu Miu men’s flashed back to the 1980’s with square shoulders, crew neck shirts, and pointy shoes reminiscent of Duran Duran a la ‘Planet Earth.’ Stefano Pilati, head designer for Yves Saint Laurent, built the YSL men’s collection on a foundation of Moroccan intrigue. Think less Marrakech (where Yves plays house) and more Paul Bowles, the American writer (in)famous for his lifelong artistic and cultural exile in Tangiers. Sharply tailored linen suits and military style shirts made for a look of casual sophistication.
Long locks and wavy, casual styles mark spring trends in hair. Natural, windblown, and air dried looks are replacing a more ‘styled’ finish. Do it yourself at home with a dab of Bumble and bumble Styling Balm, or mix a dollop of Leave-In Conditioner with a touch of Defrizz. Natlie Portman’s close crop and Sienna Miller’s short bob (hopefully) portend a comeback for shorter styles. These kinds of cuts look particularly good with dab or two of B&b Sumotech and a shot of Surf Spray – nice and tousled.
‘The look’ for spring 2006 is a bit lighter than in seasons past. You may recall that last fall/winter marked a long overdue return to structure and basic black. Well, it’s time to move on! This spring is about mixing and matching. We’re not talking about the ‘boho chic’ of last spring, but of mixing the old with the new. Case in point: the Chloé 2006 collection combines 1960’s mod with 1940’s a-line proportions and chunky platforms. Gucci also looked back into the archives, finding older prints and patterns and reworking them with a modern eye. “We’ve come out of a long period of monochrome,” said new Gucci designer Frida Giannini, “And I love prints and colors. What I want to do is an intelligent kind of glamour for my generation. Mixing the 1940s’s and 1970’s has revived the brand yet again, just like Tom Ford did for the house almost a decade ago.”
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