Fashion Model Portfolios - Avoiding Scams and Disreputable Agencies

Many young women either dream of a career as a fashion model or are approached by others who suggest it. Sometimes young women are approached directly in the street or are attracted by advertisements inviting them to 'free auditions'. Often these are merely a front for disreputable agencies and photographers whose only aim is to sell photographs and services that do nothing to help these young people into the modelling business.

If you want a personal portfolio as a record of how beautiful you truly are, capturing you at the peak of your youth, then a responsible portrait photographer will be happy to take stunning images for you and your family to treasure.

But if you want photographs to get into modelling work, note right now that you do not need professional photographs. That may surprise you but this is based on our work with a top London modelling agency, who kindly offered advice which we hope you find useful in making a decision about whether or not you want to have professional photos taken for a portfolio.

If in the end, you still want a professional photographer to take the required shots, then that is a personal decision rather than one being imposed by a scam agency.

So, how do these disreputable agencies operate?

Firstly, they exploit the dreams of hundreds of young hopefuls who attempt to break into the fashion industry each year. But it is not as easy as some so called 'model agencies' would have you believe.

Young people are approached directly in the street or respond to adverts purportedly searching for 'models'. When they have turned up for 'auditions' it turns out that the 'model agency' is nothing more than a photography company who want to charge them large sums of money for photographs which may be lovely to have, but are never going to help them find work as models in magazines, catalogues or as extras in film and TV adverts.

These disreputable agencies persuade girls to part with their money by promising them that the photos taken will get them recruited by top agencies with high returns and lifestyle. Some of these 'agencies' promise to promote the model, but unfortunately the only communication they receive is a bill asking for more money to keep their details on record.

They will tell girls of all shapes and sizes that they are guaranteed work and the end result is a lot of very disappointed girls who have learnt a hard lesson and are out of pocket too.

So, what do reputable model agencies expect?

Most model agents will politely say 'no thank you' if you are under 5ft 8in (173cm). Our contact said that she sees hundreds of would be models 'totter in' on very high heels saying they're 5ft 8in, when they are nowhere near and the conversation ends there.

She said that she knows it sounds harsh, but if you are less than 5ft 8 then forget it. Some model agencies may say shorter girls get lots of catalogue work but it's just not the case.

So if you are 5ft 8in (or over) this is what you need to know:

• You only need three photos in most cases!
• They must all be colour. Black and white or sepia 'arty' shots are no good, as agencies want to look at your hair colour and skin tones
• You need two head shots - one of which must full face with the other showing your profile
• You need one full length photo
• The photos do not need to be professionally taken. Most compact cameras are more than capable (see below for more information)
• Do not plaster on the makeup. In fact make-up should be minimal and natural looking
• Wear simple clothes such as jeans and a vest top.
• Avoid bulky bomber jackets or big shapeless jumpers - they need to see your shape
• If you have tattoos, don't worry unnecessarily, as many models have them and they can be 'art-brushed' out. However some of the more discerning clients do state 'no tattoos'.

We asked our contact if there was any other nugget she could offer and she said "yes, make it crystal clear that they must be over 5ft 8 !!!"

What to do if you are 'Scouted'

Many top model agencies still scout because it's a good way of bringing fresh faces into the industry so they are often on the look out for tall girls. Our contact always carries a few business cards and will approach suitable girls. She keeps the conversation very short insofar she tells them that they are tall enough to model etc. She then hands over her cards and asks the girls to phone her if interested. She also asks how old they are and if under 16 she asks them to give the card to a parent together with an explanatory leaflet.

And that's it! Reputable scouts do not offer to take your photos and do not offer to sell them to you.

How to tell if the agent who has scouted you or the advert in the paper is genuine?

In the UK, you can contact the Association of Model Agents at 122 Brompton Road, London SW3 1JD Tel: 020 7564 6466. Send a stamped addressed envelope for information and they will send you a list of agencies who abide the industry code of practice.

Outside the UK, we suggest you find a similar regulating organisation and contact them to ensure the agency you use is reputable.

Our advice is...

• Always check out the credentials of model agencies and companies which you approach or who contact you.
• Always be suspicious of agencies which ask for up front fees.
• Remember that reputable agencies never offer to take your photos or charge you for doing so.

Taking those portfolio photographs with your amateur camera

The three photos required by most agencies are:

• Head shot from the front (full face)
• Head shot from the side (profile)
• Full body shot

The best way to achieve these with your amateur camera is to:

• Avoid taking the photos inside with flash as this give a harsh unflattering effect - better to get outside on a cloudy day or take them in shade.
• Select a neutral rather than a busy background. Green plant foliage is a good choice.
• If you camera has a zoom, tend towards the 'tele' setting rather than 'wide' which can distort facial features.
• Try to get some distance between the subject and the background so that your subject is sharp and background less so.

We hope this has helped you. We are not trying to pour water on anyone's burning ambitions but want our clients and others to be aware of the pitfalls.

Gary Fielder BSc (Hons) is a professional photographer based in Windsor in the UK. He provides a range of high quality photographic services including weddings, portraits, events and commercial photography.